Bears!

​Some thing jolted me out of bed this morning. It was dawn, at 5:15 am, like a normal morning time, and I immediately got up to leave camp, towards the bear viewing spot. It’s only about a five minute drive. There was a class C camper van in front of me that pulled up, and I immediately pulled up behind him. The view area only has space for about six vehicles. Who knew this was the place to be. We got out and walked along the river, and within moments, we spotted a grizzly across the river right along the fishing weir. I was so excited to see the bear, after spending hours here yesterday hoping to spot one. The grizzly quickly disappeared into the woods, occasionally peeking out along the shore. It would be another hour before a mom suddenly appeared with her two cubs cross the road, quickly jumping into the river, pulling out salmon, then returning to the road to eat the salmon, pulling it apart, limb by limb. We were a crowd of at least 10 people. I was so thrilled. Next was a bear that came across the weir bridge from across the river, with three of her one year old year old triplets. (So I was told), so suddenly there were seven bears on the fishing weir. Oh my goodness, seven bear, they were quickly capturing salmon, eating, and plunging into the river back-and-forth and even at one point brawling, growing, and fighting with each other. This was the grizzly bear lottery. I was absolutely freezing in my winter clothing, but couldn’t get enough even though my legs and my hands are numb. Mind you it’s August and I’m freezing. I tried to stay and pulled away eventually, heading into town to do a complete turnaround of events. The dreaded laundromat. It gave me time to catch up on things as I warmed up. From there I stoped at IGA groceries, then on to Chilkat State Park. Who doesn’t like a name like chill cat? It was only about a 23 minute drive as I entered the park/campsite, there were signs indicating that the roads are not maintained. That basically is code for; Alaska pothole haven. The grade sign indicated 16%. Gulp, so I took it slow and even came upon a moose and her baby. I continued heading down with very sharp switchbacks seeing the ruts on the left side. Where as my side was fairly smooth. It suddenly occurred to me that the climb up would be difficult. I didn’t want to dwell on that fact and made it down to the very end of the road, a pull out area with an incredibly gorgeous view of a glacier and two waterfalls streaming down from the edge. It may have been the most gorgeous glacial viewing yet on this whole journey. It was not accessible with the inlet water in between, and a couple of islands, but it certainly was a beautiful view worthy of this trip. I did a little bit of a walk around with Jo Jo, who is as slow as can be these days and decided to navigate back towards the town of Haines. I had enough apprehension as I briefly stopped at a trail head called “a suspension trail.” A beautiful view into the forest, moss covered with birch trees, and a sighting of a stellar Jay. There was no way I was going to do any trails today after the morning of grizzly, I’m a little bit more spooked about encountering a bear along any trail! well, here comes the climb in the switchbacks, focusing on the left side of the road however, I didn’t have enough momentum and speed, and as I climbed, I slowed and finally after hitting a horrible washboard pothole jarring me around where I came to a stop. I try to regroup, and as I accelerated, I started spinning my wheels. This is the first time on my entire Alaskan trip, where I thought that I was in trouble. I stopped and knew that I had to back down as far as possible, and reverse, using my back up camera and my mirrors, hoping that no one else would be coming down the hill towards me. I took my time backing down, and hoped for the best. As soon as I captured my courage, I put it in drive and tried again, this time with a fuller force momentum staying far to the left, hoping again no one would come face on. I made it, but I am actually quite pissed off that a state park could allow for a road in this poor condition to be part of a state park. It’s unacceptable. There should’ve been a sign, indicating 4 wheel drive only indicating nobody over a certain length, and warning signs as if you were entering the gates of hell. It’s a wonder that the actual campground was bare naked like a ghost town. A beautiful campsite in this moss covered forest shaded and lovely, as you would describe any magical campsite. If this were in Colorado or anywhere in Flagstaff, it would’ve been booked out for a year in advance. Even though I was rattled, I decided to carry-on and make a quick stop at a gallery. I figured a viewing of art was going to calm my nerves. This place was called extreme dream gallery.  John and Sharon ran the gallery, and it was a beautiful spot with the same view of that glacier. I enjoyed hearing his stories about him climbing El Capitan and knowing some of the superstars of the climbing world in the 60s, 70s, and 80s. He is a watercolor painter as well as a glass artist, creating fused glass as well as lampwork beads. His wife does some mosaic pieces. It was credibly charming respite after my crazy drive. I went on back into the town of Haines to walk the campus of Fort Stewart. The turn of the century encampment with historical buildings as part of the national landmark society. I briefly stopped at the sculpture garden, which was placed inside of a foundation ruin right across from Fort Stewart, which was one large block, were Jo Jo did most of it, and I needed the walk as well to enjoy the serenity of this neighborhood. Finally, we returned to the same laundromat, were this time it offered coin operated showers. So for four dollars, I had a wonderful shower. 

It was a very fun, challenging, and very full day and the weather was perfectly warm, in the low 70s, with bright blue skies. I drove along the road towards Chilkoot lake state park, where I am stationed at a boondock site off the road with one of my remaining gorgeous views of this ocean inlet.