Charcoal Kilns

March 07, 2022

Well, the night at Wildrose campsite was very calm, but very chilly. I heard the propane furnace going on and off continuously and it was about 35 degrees this morning when I got up. I made a good start towards the top of Telescope Peak Mountain. I was headed towards the Charcoal Kilns exhibit. The national park service does a pretty good job with describing and informing visitors on what to expect regarding roads or trail conditions, so from what I could tell, these kilns where at the end of a paved road. But alas, they were not. No worries, dirt roads are plentiful out here in the wild west, and I have driven on more than my fair share. I dodged plenty of potholes, and jagged rocks, hoping for the best, as this road continuously took me straight up hill for 2 miles. Finally, I arrived in pockets of snow, nestled in the shadows. I was now at about 7500 foot elevation. I will say that the chill and the stiff winds were painful, as my bum thumb went absolutely numb very quickly. I say bum thumb, because I crushed this thumb in 2010, and it's just never been quite the same. I am used to it, but its still sensitive, and has sensitivity in the cold. But at least I still have it!

These charcoal kills were built in 1877 and only operational for three years. They used the kilns to burn the juniper wood creating charcoal, which would then be taken 20 miles west towards a silver mining operation. They would burn the charcoal to extract the silver. I was giddy, like a child, in a candy shop, when I first came upon these structures. There were 10 pristine beehive stone kilns, 25' tall, in unbelievably perfect condition, for something that was built nearly 150 years ago. There was a main door opening, and an opposite window. When you entered, the echoing was astounding, and apparently you can still smell the creosote burn, however it was so chilly today that I really couldn't smell a thing. But can you imagine still smelling soot from something that happened 150 years ago? I was absolutely amazed at this, and tickled pink over the history and the fact that these were still standing in the middle of absolutely nowhere. It also speaks to the historical relevance of how profound the need is to extract fine metals, or extract any thing from mother nature, and to the length one will go. These kilns were only used for a mere three years before other techniques took over. Under the blue sky, however, and the brisk cold air, it was a really profound experience. It may not look like much to others, but every time I go out on an adventure, especially one so far away, and removed from civilization, it really amazes me.

After checking into the Panamint Springs campsite, I traveled on towards Father Crowley Vista Point, where I looked over a multicolored lava canyon. I met a young ranger who was enamored with Jo Jo. The ranger wanted much more interaction than Jo Jo was initially willing to give. So after Jo Jo reared his ugly (adorable) head, like a bug eyed kraken, and growled, barked, gummed, concerned, protective, with his whole body in rigor mortis, he very quickly relaxed, and calmed right down with much of my insistent reassurance. Before you know it, the ranger was patiently and freely petting him, and scratching his head. And, if it were in the right place, Jo Jo would have turned over and let him give him a belly rub. All this occurred within 2 minutes. It's a comedy act.

The ranger guided me towards a place just outside the park, where I could connect with Verizon. It's been the first time ever, on any journey, where I have not been able to consistantly connect with the outside world, which may be a good thing. However I am in Death Valley, and my people, my friends, and family are probably thinking the worst. This is definitely a place that you don't underestimate, and don't take chances, unless you're willing to risk it.

Back at Father Crowley Vista, its a good thing that I didnt go to the end of the lookout, a stunning peninsula, because in this light one could not easily see the massive potholes. Its pays to really pay attention.